'Here they come on the final lap, the fight for second place, Ian is hugging the corners well but Jamie is pressing hard on the straights. Can Jamie find the right line to overtake in the final turns?'
After four weeks at one location on the Croatian farm, it felt adventurous to be back on the road in backpacker mode again.
Travelling from Zagreb, back to the Schengen zone after three months hiatus, and into Hungary required some fluidity. Our destination was Kaposvar. Reaching the Hungarian border involved three trains and a bus. All the time following the direction of our train staff. While onboard having our passports stamped, we took the opportunity for a quick snack.
Our train departed, a ticket inspector checked our tickets and advised we should have exited back at the border and taken a local train to Kaposvar.
We disembarked at the next stop, waited two hours, boarded a new train heading back along the track. Our ETA in Kaposvar adjusted to 5pm instead of 1pm.
A nice reminder while travelling to never assume you know what is going on.
In Kaposvar we were greeted by Julia, the daughter to Eszter and Janos Hando, all of whom we had met in Havana 10 months earlier. Julia appeared far more relaxed and confident in her home city compared to our interaction in Cuba. We were grateful to them all for graciously offering their home to visit, while it took us so long to make our way around the globe after Cuba.
Julia provided a tour of her home, Katica Tanya, where we would be spending the next seven days. We had found ourselves in the ultimate childhood playground. An environmentally aware amusement park which included a plethora of slides, climbing structures, games, water sports, mazes, animals and go karts.
Ninety percent of their energy usage was gathered through solar panels and all of their water was self treated and returned to the land.
They catered for hundreds of visitors a day and in the busy Summer periods could get up to a thousand in one day.
The idea for this adventure park was developed while Eszter and Janos were in Australia on their own world tour back in the 1999. We loved hearing their stories, passing through Nepal, attempting to negotiate their vehicle into China, making their way around the Americas. Many similar tales of trials and rewards as we sparked memories from both our journeys.
Our accommodation was in a dormitory house that could sleep 75. We were provided our own private room with six bunk beds to choose from. On our second night the house was joined by a school group. The teachers kept a polite control over the group and the music was turned down after 11pm.
The majority of our time while at Katica Tanya was spent helping at the Electric Go Kart track. When it was quiet we would sweep and tidy the admin area, rotate the karts in preparation, repair helmets and relax on the couch playing on our phones.
When it was busy, we could have up to 30 racers shuffling through their registration, safety prep area, settling into go karts and racing around the track. We worked well as a team, preparing the karts, shuttling them through the grid, placing them on charge, monitoring their track time and any incidents, then waving a checkered flag and guiding them back into the grid area.
On a busy Friday afternoon, our last racers would not finish until 7pm. At the close, we would rush through our final jobs, locking up, counting the register, then switching the power off as we left. A high five on the way out of the door. A fun job we never could have imagined doing while on our travels.
In the early morning prior to the park opening, or later in the evening, we were able to sneak onto the rides and adventure areas for our own fun. Jamie prowessing up the cimbing walls and flipping on the trampolines. Ian self administering his own chiropractor session on the olympic trampolines.
Of course, a lot of fun zooming around the go kart tracks. Jamie establishing her best time, 41 seconds; Ian at 40 seconds, Julia the fastest at 39 seconds, and the track record standing at 38 seconds. One more week working at the track and we were confident we could have given the record a nudge.
Meal times were a self managed affair. With a fully equipped service restaurant and staff, the family rarely prepared their own meals, instead, along with the staff, we searched through the fridges for left over food from the service area. Quite often discovering a smorgasboard of delights; boar stew, moussaka, lasagne, soups, roasted vegetables and more. Always topping off with a few cakes as dessert.
It took us two days to gain confidence to refuse the traditional Janos breakfast of frankfurters in mustard. Our preference leaning towards a coffee and some pastries instead.
Monday was a closed day for the park, as recommended, we travelled to the nearby town of Pecs. Home to Hungary's first university. We enjoyed walking through the old cobble streets admiring the variety of building styles with influences from the Austrians, Ottomons and Huns.
In the evening we were joined by the Hando family, we ventured up to a viewing tower to admire the sun setting, then a meal in town before returning to Katica Tanya.
On our penultimate day we tagged behind Julia to school. In her first lesson, English Language, we sat before the class and spoke about Australia and our travel adventures. Ian slipping back into a thicker rural Australian accent and Jamie politely translating when required.
After the class we were picked up by Janos to join him on a Regional Tourism Conference aboard a ferry on the Lake Balaton.
Upon arriving, we discovered this was a typical corporate shindig with many slick haired suit wearers needing to talk loudly. We must have cut an odd appearance in our vibrant Katica Tanya polo shirts. Janos equally standing out from the crowd in his more honest demeanor.
We had a great time aboard the three hour ferry ride, admiring the view, sampling the local foods, draining the local wine bottles.
We enjoyed Janos having a good laugh each time he passed us with another drink on our table.
That evening, as if we hadn't already had enough adventure, we were taken out to dinner in Kaposvar for a delicious Hungarian meal.
We certainly admire the values of Janos and Eszter. To create an environmentally aware adventure park for children, families and corporate entertainment. We often found them talking of their frustration towards the hectic city patrons from Budapest. Having to remind them in the rural area things went slower and time needed to be appreciated.
Though to us, even the speed at which Janos and Eszter moved was a great deal faster than we had become accustomed to. Maybe we still have a lot of South America in us.
We finally bid farewell to Janos and Katica Tanya, a remarkably fun experience we could not have imagined stumbling across on our own volition.
Eszter drove us North to Budapest and their original home in Pomaz. They had graciously offered a room for us to stay in while sightseeing Budapest.
We gave a fond farewell to Eszter in the morning, a promise to cross paths again.
Then made our way by train into Budapest.
Our first day in Budapest was spent walking the elevated side of Buda. The palace, church and along the Danube up to the citadel monument.
A glorious sunny day, admiring the views across Pest and grand buildings on both sides. A grandiose parliament spreading its girth along the river.
Our second day took us onto Margaret Island with a bicycle ride and relaxing walk. We enjoyed a beer and burger allowing time to float by. A late afternoon stroll around the parliament, past the shoes memorial to murdered victims during the second World War. Finally, up around Stephen's Basilica before returning to Pomaz.
Our third day, now with tired feet, we made it into the Jewish quarters, some vintage stores, weekend markets and finally onto the train for a journey out to Szentendre. A small village that has retained its cobbled streets and attractive water front. A brass band to greet us and a chilled chardonnay sitting along the river, sampling dolmades. Another reminder to be grateful for our surroundings, comforts and company.
That evening we met up with Julia again. She had journeyed to the big city to spend the night with some friends in the house. At first we thought this could go all night, but after they made macaroni and cheese, waffles, then listened to some tunes they politely kept things quiet after 11pm.
An early rise, we found several teenagers asleep on the lounge room couch and floor. We quietly gathered ourselves, gave a hug to Julia and promised to see her in Australia one day.
A lovely farewell to Hungary and a beautiful Hando family.
While together, we had asked a lot about how they maintained the important memories and values from their travels after all these years establishing a life for themselves.
Eszter replied, "Every day is a holiday."
We could not agree more.
Upon our return to Australia and our journey onwards, what ever that may be, every day can be a holiday if you choose it to be.
Thank you Hando's. Until we meet again.
