Black Betty

The magestic Loon has a wrangling call that leaves no other on a lake.

   Approaching Trumps 'other' wall, one of us was beginning to get nervous. Though he tried not to let it show, the steering wheel was gripped more tightly, a rush of concerned thoughts flew across the mind and he began to perspire. Jamie, as relaxed as ever was happily taking photos as we pulled up to the Canadian Border Control. Being advised to place the vehicle in park, turn the ignition off and hand over documentation, Jamie obliged, Ian began to think of the banana skins he thought he should have discarded earlier.
   Turns out, the Canadian's are awesome. The border patrol officer ended up chatting to us about numerous hiking places we should go. All in America, he suggested a few in Utah, Montana and Death Valley. We jotted them all down and gave our thanks. No customs visit or any further queries, he simply wished us well and allowed us entry.

   We noticed as we made our way further inland a few miles, we began to lose our mobile service coverage for data and the rental hire GPS lost its accuracy. So, continuing as Burke and Wills, or Lewis and Clarke, we got out our paper maps and began to navigate like old times.
   We found a camping spot in Manning Provincial Park. In Canada they allow free camping in State Parks. While their national ones require payment to enter. We saw no bear sightings at our first camp place in Canada, though we had plenty of fun scouring the river bed for some interesting stones.
   The following day we made our way into Vancouver, in hindsight we didn't do it justice, though Ian should be blamed for that. We also found out that the majority of Canadian radio stations all tended to make fun of Americans and particularly Trump. Constantly. We didn't mind that.

   We nestled our way onto Granville Island, found a park for only $5 per day and began exploring. The Fringe Festival was on, so their were plenty of small gigs and shows on offer. We thoroughly enjoyed the Public Market and sampled many small fine dishes. Alas, they began to kick us, as well as 200 other tourists, out at 7pm precisely. A little awkward, particular when we exited the toilets only to find part of the area shut by a security gate.
   We got our own way back, by sleeping in the car park that night. It takes a little bit to get used to sleeping in a car park. Timing the toilet break to ensure you don't need to go between the hours of 8pm and 7am. Also, being used to the pedestrian noise as people walk beside your vehicle along footpaths or to their own vehicle following a show. After the first few curtain peeks, you just sort of don't worry about it.
   The following morning, with the island traffic waking up, we were up and about by 6am. We made our way back into the Public Market to see the vendors slowly setting up. Fun to be there before anyone else and the first to grab the freshest croissants and coffee of the morning.

   Being ready to explore the city, we departed the Island for the CBD, with our fuel low we were on the look out. The CBD had limited parking so we made our way to Stanley Park which was nice to explore. Through the odd left and right turns when we thought we needed to, we made our way North over the bridge and into a shopping centre for fuel and wifi. At this stage we were both a little tired and admittedly, grumpy. Ian chose to head to the Car Rental facility to replace the GPS with one that included Canadian maps. That would take us back through the city, another hour at least. Not hearing suggestions he departed, with minimal directions. Making numerous wrong turns he somehow stumbled upon the rental centre by sheer stupidity. Grumpier still, we then decided to make our way back through the city, again, this time towards Whistler. So off we went, through the city and over the bridge. As we exited the city we had our first communication, Jamie accurately querying, "So, did you like Vancouver?" We stopped shortly after this, Ian definitely apologised for being in a foul mood and we made peace.

   We camped near Squamish that evening, a lovely river and camp spot, despite ropes in the trees already, we saw no bears. The recommendation on a sign was to remove all food from our vehicle and hang in the tree. We thought that was a bit stupid and possibly a ploy by the bears to trick humans into leaving their food outside.
   It rained throughout the night, lovely to listen to, though we were a little unsure of the drive out of the camp along the rough dirt road with all the water. Fortunately the next day, while it was wet with puddles, our Big Bird performed well.

   Whistler was a gorgeous village. Well catered for and plenty of tourists. We strolled through the main centre, still boasting of its 2010 Winter olympics. It was a great stroll up through the town centre to the lifts and hoard of summer enthusiasts and their mountain bikes. Of course, there was another beer festival on, we relaxed in a cafe, caught up on some wifi and received news that the Demons beat the Hawks to progress in the Finals of the AFL.
   While thoroughly enjoying Whistler, it did seem a town for tourists, so we left them to it and made our way along the beaten path to a rough pull off, downhill descent to a small camp site on Duffey Lake. As we began to prepare our Thai Green Curry for dinner, the other spare spaces behind trees filled up. We knew this as we'd grabbed the last little cut out at the end of a small dirt road, and gradually, each new vehicle would wind its way to us, stop, then reverse back to find another corner. As darkness fell, so too did the temperature, we built a small fire out of some scrap wood laying about and old maps from many States ago. Suddenly, we heard a rustling through the trees in the darkness down by the water. A little unsure we grabbed for our lights and shone towards the sound. Relieved, we heard a jingle of a collar and knew a dog must have found its way towards us. Sure enough, it came pouncing over, a black labrador unaware of the fear it had created.

   The next morning, pondering so many breakfasts we had enjoyed on this journey; pancakes, french toast, porridge, toast with cheese and tomato. We decided to change it up, this time we put together french toast with feta, tomato and a dash of tabasco. Jamie voted it the second best breakfast on the trip so far. First being our very first pancakes and blueberry creation many weeks ago. This later formed a fun car conversation later in the day, as many are aware, holiday travels are filled with what meal will be eaten next.

   A short drive later we had made our way to the Info Centre at Kamloops, wifi, general info and some more paper maps, we were on our way. A re-supply as well as a Thrift Store stop off to purchase a couple extra blankets and we were on our way. We read the weather report for Jasper and -4 degrees celsius at night made us question our two blankets.
   An hours drive North and we reached Little Fort. A small unmarked camp site off a back road. We weaved our way between the trees and Ian abruptly slammed the brakes, calling out to Jamie, "There's a bear!" pointing to his right. A quick reverse and telling Jamie to grab the camera, sure enough our first wild black bear raised it's head, looking at us, a little perturbed for disturbing it's relaxing afternoon lunch. As we snapped away, completely neglecting all of our bear training exercises, the black bear gradually turned, and walked off into the trees.
   Thoroughly excited, we drove slowly around the remainder of the camp site to ensure we had no other wild guests. Sure enough, we were alone, we chose a small spot, far away from our bear sighting, along the lake. As we set up camp and prepared dinner, we each had regular looks back through the trees to ensure we weren't followed. That evening, tucked into bed, we were uncertain about creeping out for a midnight toilet break. Instead, choosing to hold on until daylight ensured we wouldn't be surprised by a hungry bear.

   The following morning we had a gorgeous sleep in, overlooking a still lake, as a gargling Loon paddled its young across the lake. We caught up on some washing and with no sign of the bear, we did discover what had attracted it. At a rear camp space, someone had attempted to burn their bbq items, including metal foil with fat. So we picked it all up in a garbage bag, packed it into the van and deposited it at a nearby secure bin.
   Cruising away, we said farewell to our Loon and our Bear, back to Little Fort and on to Clearwater. A refuel and a very good Info Centre. We slowly made our way to Valemount. Just South, on a large lake we found another camp spot. We got another fire started with the help of more paper maps given to us from our friends at the Info Centres. We wonder if they have caught on to us being so interested in any map that happens to be made from paper. Even if it is of Toronto, if it's on paper, we say we want it. They do come in handy.
   Potato in jackets, marinated beef with curry stew, overlooking a lake with snow capped mountains behind. Divine. Tomorrow we will venture to Jasper.