Utah's a Bit Different

"Utah is a bit different." According to the Walmart Staff Member in Hurricane, Utah.

   Though, that was in reference to whether the store stocked any wine. We learnt the state had a conservative side to it and liquor stores, particular 'hard' liquor like wine, was very hard to come by. Prior to that however, our opinion was and probably still remains, 'Utah Rocks!' Which is why we purchased a shirt with that logo.

   We entered Bryce Canyon National Park, already impressed with the entire continental divide from Jasper, Canada and all the way down through Wyoming, Colorado and Utah. So we weren't certain if we were going to see anything new. Cue Bryce Canyon, hot diggity, what a sight. The stand out is clearly the 'hoodoo' coined pinnacle structures that pepper the amphitheatre canyon. Like thin fingers reaching upward or as the Native Americans referred to as human bodies turned to rock. The geological phenomenon is created by a perfect mixture of limestone ontop of sandstone, then weathering with rain and freezing of water between cracks to split as well as an addition of slightly acidic rain to top it off. Creating, over time, this pencil like rock structures, outstanding.
   On the first day, we chose to hike the Peekaboo trail, which winds down to the canyon floor and around the 'hoodoos'. Once again, we were walking with our mouths open in awe of the experience. We had lunch down in the canyon before returning to the plateau which sat around 7,000 feet. The temperature ensured we didnt linger long, 2 degrees celsius in the sun made sure everyone was rugged up. In the afternoon we began preparing our location to camp. We knew we wanted to return to Bryce the next day and didnt want to pay to camp within the National Park. So instead, we looked just outside and searched for a quiet road. While doing this we also double checked the weather report, -10 celsius overnight had us questioning our plan. As we drove down a quiet road we passed a small motel not too dissimilar to the type you see in many horror movies where a lovely young couple meet a gruesome death to a dramatic overture. We thought that would be a far nicer outcome than freezing to death so made our enquiry and for only $60 we booked a room.
  
   Opening the door, we were mightily impressed to see a television, microwave, shower and heater. We felt spoilt so quickly began boiling water in the microwave and flicking every station on the tv. Turns out the tv was too loud and obtrusive for us so we quietened it down to a minimal volume and let a Harry Potter film run in the background. With the heater on 90 fahrenheit we snuggled in bed with our microwave dinner and caught up online with the free wifi.
   As it turns out, we weren't brutally murdered in the night. Though Big Bird was frozen in the morning. After defrosting our van, we returned to Bryce Canyon for more of the look out views along its 20 mile ridge. Around lunch time we returned to the popular area and completed the Navajo trail which included the 'Wall Street', 'Two Bridges' and 'Thors Hammer'. All completely spellbounding, particular the narrow wall street columns. Bryce, you had given us something new and we loved it.

   That afternoon we made our way out and as the weather was due for another cold night, we decided to head a little further South just to drop off the Mesa. So down near Kanab we gathered some supplies and drove around some back roads in search of our home for the night.
   As we wound our way through the North part of town, we rumbled along plenty of dirt roads and what appeared to be some great potential spots. Alas, we kept coming across a strange but friendly sign that read, 'Best Friends Only.' It had a picture of a cat and dog on it. At first we thought nothing of it, but at every convenient turn off that we could park our van, there the sign was again. Almost telling us, if we were not a 'Best Friend' we weren't allowed. As we made our way along a creek and up a hill, Jamie spotted some wind chimes and more of the signs. Then a larger open area spotted with hundres of small concrete stones on the ground. There we saw our sign again, 'Best Friends Only' and it dawned on us. This was a giant animal pet cemetery!! Ian asked how Jamie felt sleeping in a pet cemetery, the answer was clear, 'Let's get out of here!'
   So, back along the highway and on the other side we found another more suitable dirt road. After some scrambling on the sand and a few attempted pull ins and Ian trying to get Big Bird bogged again, Jamie advised, 'not here' just a little further and sure enough we found our camp for the night on firmer soil and no best friend signs.

   The next day we made our entrance to Zion Canyon, via the East Entrance. Definitely sandstone territory and lots of it. Fantastic layering, cross bedding and colours. Plenty of Iron and limestone creating hundreds of layers. We travelled through the tunnel and towards the Information Centre. We chose the nearby Watchman Trail for the afternoon which provided a good perspective back over the town. We organised for the following day to be our big hike day, so made our way back to the Van and headed South of the Park to find some BLM space 'Bureau Land Management' which was typically free dispersed camping. There we camped with a few others along a creek.
   An early rise with an alarm the next morning at 6:30am, one of the first times we've woken by alarm since being on holiday. But we were eager to get into Zion early to start our hikes. Porridge and coffee were eaten on the 15minute drive back into the park. There we parked at the Info Centre and caught the shuttle up to our trailhead. The primary road into Zion Canyon has been closed to public traffic and they now operate a shuttle bus system from the info centre. Quite convenient but you need to be early to get a park at the info centre. We caught our bus with the other eager hikers at 8am. Observation Trail was first and after two hours of climbing we reached the pinnacle, offering a spectacular view of the Zion Canyon South towards the village. This was a magnificent trail that offered a variety of rock formations, colours and grand scale bending above as you walk between. A well maintained trail that had been concreted in most parts for sure footing.
   As we made our way down, we stopped at the Weeping Rock, which was a wave like indent that had the water above weeping off the edge in front, so you could stand behind and admire the shower view. A quick lunch then we made our way back onto the shuttle up to the end point of Zion Canyon. We participated in the popular Riverside walk up to the Narrows. However, we didnt cross the small Virgin river for the longer Narrows walk. You either need expensive boots that you can hire from the village, which come with a free stick you can keep. Or as Jamie and I were contemplating, just walking across in our thongs. But we thought we'd better let the more adventurous special boot wadding tourists take that path. We returned back down the canyon to our other hike for the day, Angels Landing.

   Angel's Landing, so called, as only an Angel could possibly perch atop the peak. Jamie and I preferred to call it, "Holy Shit Balls I'm Going To Die Pinnacle." As we began our hike, three nuns passed us on their way down. We discussed the meaning of this, we weren't sure whether it was a good, or bad omen. We still don't.
   A steep zig zagging climb took us quickly up the side of the canyon and then we found our brief respite before the very narrow peak waited for us. With a thousand feet vertical drop on either side and at some places only four metres wide, it made for a heart pounding, white knuckle, extreme climb. At times we had forgotten to take breath as the sheer vertigo was overpowering. Jamie led the way and as she describes, "I just focused on each step in front of me and didn't look sideways until I reached the top." Ian on the other hand, held the camera and gopro, so was attempting to capture the moment for others, which also made it very nervous for him.
   With a chain in place for some parts of the climb, the need for upper body strength to pull yourself up and between rocks and many times where you needed to lower your center of gravity and hug the rocks like a lizard just to make it over a bare patch of rock as the wind rushed at your side. Our adrenalin was pumping.
   With a few photos at the top, we were quickly on our way down as dark clouds began to loom. For any adrenalin junky out there, we highly recommend Angel's Landing at Zion Canyon, mind blowing.

   Overall, for the day we ended up hiking over 25 kilometres and 1.2 kilometres in elevation. We were stuffed! We made our way back to the Info Centre and to Big Bird, then drove to the same camping spot just South of the Village. After a giant bowl of chilli con carne and some chocolate for dessert, we collapsed into slumber at 7pm.

   The next day was a slow rise and some very tight legs. An omelet for breaky and we made our way towards the town of Hurricane for another coffee and a resupply. We're definitely familiar with our Walmart routine now and where to grab our items. It was here that we searched for some wine and were advised they did not stock any. The nearest 'liquor' store was a further 5 mile drive. So we thought, Utah, you've been incredible, but we need our wine. So East we   drove, through Fredonia and into Arizona, making it all the way to Jacob Lake.

   We feel proud to wear our 'Utah Rocks' shirt and cap, incredible. Now on to the Grand Canyon!