Colca Chico's

"Tomorrow is tomorrow Chico's." Our guide Frank told us. An attempt to not dwell on the fact that hiking down 1,200 metres would mean that tomorrow, we would have to hike up, 1,200 metres.

Though our journey into Colca Canyon, for the most part, never seemed like a hard slog. Three days with great people in a breathtaking atmosphere made it a memorable moment that will stay with us forever.

Prior to reaching Colca Canyon, we had three days exploring Arequipa. With a rise in elevation from Lima, up to 2,300 metres, we took things slowly at first. Staying in the Unesco protected historical heart of the city, we enjoyed walking the cobbled streets and admiring the beautiful Plaza de Armas and Basilica Catedral.

It was fun to walk the local markets, sampling the street food and even testing out the roasted Guinea Pig. Once is enough with the guinea pig.

We thoroughly enjoyed the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, learning a lot of the early 1500s and 1600s, the life of nuns and the hardships they and the town faced. We snapped a gazillion photos of the stunning architecture.

Overall, a beautiful city and second largest in Peru after Lima.

Our next journey, after coordinating through a tour group, was a three day hike of Colca Canyon. One of the World's deepest canyon's at a depth of 3,200 metres. Fortunately, we weren't hiking that part, instead, an area near Cabanaconde which would take us down 1,200 metres.

The adventure began from Arequipa. We were told to wait for our bus outside our accommodation at 3am, after 45 minutes of observing some very tipsy locals stumbling by, our bus arrived.

A cold and bumpy drive took us up to an elevation of 5,000 metres, weaving between volcanoes on our way to the town of Chivay. Arriving at 7am, we ate a rough breakfast and climbed back aboard our bus still in a daze. We made our way West along the Colca Canyon, stopping briefly at a viewing point to spot Andean Condor's. Sadly it was too early and cold for them to be circling any thermals, so instead we admired the fog and a few peeks at the canyon.

Back aboard the bus and we made our way to the outskirts of Cabanaconde. A large dirt field, a small wooden table, some banos and large gathering of hiking tourists standing about. We left our excess bags on the bus and crossing our fingers that we would see them again as promised.

We were advised a guide would be here soon and call our name out. We were to follow that guide.
Two guides arrived and called a variety of names, each tourist walked over and received some instruction and then followed that guide off into the distance.

That left 10 other tourists looking a little lost, wondering if they had missed something. Introductions were made and a little laughter at all feeling the same. Though all agreeing, in Peru you just go with the flow.

Then from behind a wall, a local guide named, Frank arrived.
"Hola Chico's! Let's go, Vamos!" He says.

We make our way towards the edge of the canyon and there, Frank fills us in our the next three days.
The two groups that had left before us were completing the canyon hike in two days. We, on the other hand, could take our time and enjoy the scenery. We had time to spare.

An 8km hike which took us down 1,200 metres, we could do in a leisurely four hours. We would have lunch and relax for the afternoon and evening. The following day, another four hour relaxed hike after breakfast, and then spend the afternoon in a pool at an oasis for the evening. Finally, on the third day, up at 4am to hike back up and out of the canyon.

"But my friends, tomorrow is tomorrow. So let us enjoy today." Frank reminds us.

With that, we headed off, a sunny day, cool temperature, packs on our back, down into Colca Canyon.

In our group were; Chris & Jess from Wales, Felix & Vera from Germany, Cynthia & Camila from Chile, Amelia from Melbourne and Marie from New Caledonia.

The four hour hike down gave us an opportunity to learn what brought each of us here. Frank paused on occasion and gave us a little information on the area.

The small villages we would pass by tomorrow, how most locals now left the canyon for more opportunities in the cities.

The local festival, Virgin of Candelaria, occuring at the moment that had brought many people back to visit family and each other.

The green hillsides, which for most of the year are actually dry and barren.

The 200 active volcanoes within the region.

Local news about the birth of the Amazon river possibly starting in Colca Canyon and therefore inrceasing its length and overtaking the Nile as the longest river in the world.

We reached our resting point for the day by 1pm, we settled into a simple but cosy room, then enjoyed a lovely lunch of soup, chicken and rice.

Some discussion was had for our afternoon activities, the possibility of exploring the area, maybe even a small hike up the back of the canyon. But by 2pm and after being awake since 3am, we all chose a nap as priority.

Three hours later and we all slowly rose out of our slumber, thoroughly rested and interested in helping our hosts prepare dinner.

The kitchen was traditional and  rustic with clay fire oven and cats and dogs curled up in front, basking in the heat. A well fed chicken walked between the chopping table, clucking as if it owned the joint. We helped chop some vegetables that would make a soup for the evening.

We didn't see our guide, Frank, for the evening. Our hosts at the accommocation advised us breakfast would be at 7:30am, so with that, we all retired early after dinner and slept like logs.

The morning of day two, we enjoyed an amazing breakfast of wholemeal hotcakes, banana and chocolate. Another meal together allowed for more conversations about our different journey's and the hike we were on. Many questions about what was in store and where our guide was. Towards the end of our breakfast we were told that Frank had gone off to the next village , instead, another guide would come and meet us, take us half way to a nearby town, from there another person would take us the remainder of the way, we would meet Frank again at our destination in the afternoon.

Okay, we thought. We will just go with the flow.
We prepared our packs and water, refilling from the spring water and adding some iodine purification tablets. At 9am we sat waiting, when around the corner of our small house, Frank appeared!

He told us, "Don't worry Chico's, we leave in 30 minutes. No rush today." So we sit and chat amongst ourselves, each of us coming up with a plausible story for his disappearance and sudden reappearance. Which one of us would win the prize for being correct, we wondered?

The second day journey was a simpler one, it was, 'a little up, and a little down'. Along the Rio Colca, for roughly four hours. The biggest surprise and privilege was passing through the small village of Cosninhua and finding ourselves amongst the festival, Virgin of Candelaria.

With loud brass instruments and heavy drums beating music, locals dressed in fine sparkling dresses, colourful hassled hats emerged and began some feet stamping dancing. We all stood wide eyed, speechless and enthralled at the process of celebration. In a small village yard, speeches were made, music was played, dancing took place. Then most importantly, food was passed around.

We were invited to dance, but too embarassed at our sweatiness from hiking. Then offered food, but too shy to accept. We were incredibly grateful at the open hospitality and welcoming gestures.

Many smiles and laughter at our nervousness, many local boys teasing and posturing at our Chilean hiking girls. Frank seemed to enjoy the banter and was easily at home with his friends and family. We sat and paused for over an hour, taking it all in. Finally, it came time for us to move on.

We bid farewell and gave many, 'Gracias.' As we walked along the road, it seemed the music was following us. Sure enough, it was time the festival journeyed to the next town, following in our footsteps, we chose to wait, and let them pass.

The sound of trombones and drums echoing throughout the canyon. At times we weren't sure if there was any tune, it seemed the louder you could be, the better it was. The band itself consisted of more than 50 musicians.

Frank told is that each year a different member of the community would pay for the festival, forking out thousands of Soles to pay for the musicians and food. They would be showered in praise for the whole festival. Then they would never need to pay again, but would have done their service for the community with good fortunes.

To find ourselves amongst this festival within the canyon at this time of the year, without us previously knowing. A rare miracle that we are profoundly thankful for.

As we left the music behind, we made our way a few more hours into the Oasis that would be our relaxation for the afternoon and accommodation for the evening. A jump in the pool was a little chilly but refreshing, our group now thoroughly enjoying each others company and experience.

We were all glad we chose the three day hike. This allowed for moments to pause and appreciate the moment. In the afternoon we enjoyed cerveza's and sat around playing a card game called, 'Bullsh*t'. A simple game of lying in order to win. We discovered that Felix can not lie, even though Vera always thinks he does. Chris was almost caught out if it wasn't for Amelia's keeness to win, which she did. Jess probably would have won if she hadn't forgotten Jamie was meant to play her hand before her. Cynthia and Camila picked up the game far too easily for their first time. While Marie watched, we could tell she would have been a sleuth at the game.

Many laughs that for a brief moment we had happily forgotten the climb in store for us the next morning.

Finally, day three arrived. Those that had made it a two day trek had joined us late in the evening. They were weary but had no choice but to rise again at 4am, as we did and prepare for the 1,200 metre journey upwards.

With flashlights on, like a caravan of tired bodies, we followed the feet in front of us and stepped our way over the rocks, up the steps through the darkness.

Though the sun didn't rise until 6:30am, light began to form around the mountains and allow us to switch off our torches a little after 5am. Only 30 minutes into our journey. This helped guide our steps a little more safely, but equally illumiated the mammoth height that lay before us.

With many pauses, taking in some water, a brief look around the canyon, we slowly inched our way up the steep cliff. The sun lazily broke through, the snow capped mountains in the distance glowed. Though breathing hard and tired legs, the view was spectacular.

Moments together, with sweat dripping, we sat staring at an astounding landscape that we could not believe was before us.

A challenging climb, but nearly four hours after we began, we reached the top of the canyon. Joining our fellow hikers, sweaty high five's, we exulted in our achievement.

We were glad of having completed the climb before the heat of the sun had hit us.

A moment's pause, a quick dry down of sweat, we made our way through some paddocks of purple maize towards Cabanaconde for breakfast.

Sitting around the table, we appreciated each others effort's and company over the journey.

We then made our way back towards Chivay, stopping along the way for some sight seeing of the canyon and resting in some hot springs. A perfect recuperation for the muscles, moving from 10 degree Rio Colca into 40 degree hot pool.

Finally some lunch, then back into Chivay. Jamie and I left the group there. Our journey's went on separate ways. We would stay in Chivay a further two nights while the rest would return to Arequipa.

A very fond farewell, many hugs and laughs and best wishes for safe travels.

The next two days in Chivay was a tremendous relaxation. A delightful town with friendly markets, delicious foods and wondrous mountain ranges.

We took a short hours hike to stretch our legs and look down on the town from a nearby hill. Though only being here for a moment, we had fallen in love with this area and more importantly the symbol of what we feel Peru is about.

Incredibly friendly and resilient people in a dramatic landscape.
We have had a wonderful journey through Peru so far, so much diversity, and still, The Lake and The Desert to come!