David's Gaze

The ginger biscuit dips gently in the hot coffee.
Wet toes curl in our socks to find warmth.
Light drizzle falls outside.
"Just wanna... I just wanna..." plays over the cafe stereo.

We find a moment to relax in a cafe near our accommodation in Mainz, Germany.

Almost four weeks ago we arrived in Europe, explored Lisbon and then wound our way from Naples, Italy all the way up to Frankfurt in Germany.
At times we felt we moved quickly, but with 90 days on our Euro Visa, there is just too much to see to sit still for too long.

In a few days we will have the pleasure of spending two weeks on a country farm East of Hamburg.
For now, we are tourists.

Let's leave dreary Mainz now and return to the sun filled sky of Tuscany!

Departing Siena, we arrived in Florence with four days to explore and relax. Our accommodation was a perfect walk from the primary tourist area. Shared accommodation, we met a mix of Russian, English and Greek people.
The rooms were wonderfully eclectic, though the toilet cistern had a habit of overflowing, onto the floor and creating pools to walk through. A little handyman work was thoroughly enjoyed as we all spoke in broken mixed languages to attempt a temporary repair.

The city look-out was a delight, so too the crowded tourist streets, but a stand out for us both, David. Quite at ease, unabashed, he seems to have spotted something in the distance. Were we to blink, it would not surprise us if he gave a light shrug, then adjusted his pose.

From Florence we made our way towards La Spezia, via Pisa. A surprise to Jamie that the Towers lean was so pronounced. A delightful city and the perfect place to pause for lunch and people watch.

Two nights in La Spezia allowed us to venture out along the Cinque Terre trails for a long hike. We were informed some of the sea side, easier, walks were closed for repairs. Unperturbed we opted for the longer, steeper, upper trails. Then ventured down into each town to explore.

Quite simply, breathtaking. Between vines, through olive trees, opening gates, over stones and down dusty paths we had an absolute blast. Stretching our deep hiking muscles, we surprised even ourselves at the distance and area we covered.

The villages were busy so we didn't stay long, our pleasure coming from the solitude across the top of the peaks.
At times walking beside a man and his granddaughter as they walked to their small garden to check on the chooks and find some eggs. Waving hello and greeting a couple slowly ploughing a small garden by hand, preparing for planting.

Over, around, up and down we hiked for nearly nine hours. Pausing for plenty of drink breaks, snack spots and lunch beside a church, beneath a tree overlooking a village and across the sea.
It sent shivers down our spine at the majesty around us. We could have sat there for a thousand years and not tire of the view, nor the company.

The next move was a three train journey, via Milan to a small town called Castelleone.
We had a family contact all the way from Robinvale that had allowed us to visit and stay. Louisa and her husband Alceste, were caretakers of a church outside of town and had been doing that for nearly 40 years.
Louisa taught english while Alceste made violins. Their four year old German shepherd, Layla, ruled the roost. They had two adult children that had long since left home.

An imposing church that was popular for weddings; walking down hallways and into rooms gave a little tingle of mystery for what the walls had seen over its 500 year history. We stayed in a room that once slept monks, so too parents, aunties and grandparents of Ian.

Louisa's overflowing book shelves were a rabbit warren for the imagination. Another delightful home we could easily have lost ourselves in for hundreds of years.
Though what made our stay truly special was not the grand architecture or history in the walls, but the home and life created by Alceste and Louisa. A profound delight to share time with Louisa and her infectious love of life and cheekiness. We loved to create meals for her and share them in her home.
Then the enigmatic Alceste, exquisite in his crafting table, crowded by his art, cautious at first but deeply respectful and accommodating as time grows.
You both made our stay a rare experience we haven't felt before and are greatly thankful for allowing us in to your home.
We hope one day to cross paths again.

Departing Castelleone, we made our way to the love struck Verona. Quite a unique city wrapped in its river Adige and allowing a glorious raised vista to appreciate the cosiness down below. Easy enough to stroll around, it wasn't difficult to find the tourists sights, throngs of cameras squeezing in to Julia's house for a balcony shot. Despite all of this, a lovely city to walk around.

Finally, our last Italian city before crossing the border was North in the Alps at Bolzano. Recommended by Louisa, we were thrilled by the Otzi museum. Our 5,000 year old ancestor discovered in the nearby glaciers. Remarkably well preserved, the presentation of discovery, excavating and then the mystery of his death kept us glued for hours.
The city of Bolzano was wonderful to walk, snow capped mountains hugged it from all sides.
We finally bid farewell with meals of pasta and pizza.

On a re-count, 20 nights in Italy, we ate pizza for 6, pasta for 12, while the remaining two were a risotto and sausages. A feat we are proud of.

Thus ends our Italian journey.
Our next move will be North to Munich, then winding our way West and further North as we continue to reach our farming appointment near Hamburg by the 8th of April.

Time now to return to our ginger biscuit and coffee in our Mainz cafe.
We'll be back in touch shortly.