Tentastic

"What are you then? An oversized squirrel?"
"I'm a burglar.... ergh... a hobbit."
"A Burglarhobbit?"
"Can we cook it?"

Please, why did we leave it so long to write a blog?
It has been four and a half weeks since we departed Morocco.
Now, on a bus from Split to Zagreb, we will attempt to fill you in on our time in the United Kingdom.

Our first point of call in London was the Higginson household in Sidcup. A delightful injection of Australian culture after our foreign month in Morocco.
Over a cup of tea and some biscuits with Mike and Sue, we caught up on the time since we were last together. Christmas in Australia two years prior.

We took a short trip to stroll the Maritime Museum in Grenwich, thoroughly enjoyed, though highly dubious references to the British colonisation of Australia. They seem to have thought it was quite harmonious.

The next few days we enjoyed in Cambridge. Sightseeing the grand college's and old stomping ground for the Higginson family. A dabble in some local theatre was interesting and we think Mike enjoyed our critique.

On our final evening, sadly Ian caught a stomach bug. That did not prevent us from picking up our hire car from Stansted on the way back to Sidcup. Some confusion at the check-in about insurances and we drove away over $1,000 more expensive than we first budgeted.

We bid farewell to the Higginson family, they were off to enjoy some Stag and Hen parties for their daughter, Alice and her partner Dom.

We walked up Leith Hill and a quick picnic before arriving at our second English family, Phil and Linda Barnes in Reading. Parents of friends that now live in Adelaide and we last saw at their daughters wedding four years earlier.

This time, sadly, Jamie had now received Ian's stomach bug and it was her turn to have a rough sleep and quarantine herself.

In this time we began to build up our inventory of camping equipment. A quick pop-in at Fran and Dan's home (Jamie's cousin) near High Wycombe was a lot of fun. The last time we were together was four years ago when Fran was only recently pregnant. Now in a new home and with two young boys we had a lot to catch up on.
Fun also to see her parents, Phil and Jan, all the way out from New Zealand and Jamie's other cousin, Dave, who was living and working in London.

Now stock piled with donated camping equipment, we ventured off for the Northern country. Full of excitement, hope and naivety.

Our first point of call was actually another home and old friend of Jamie, Holly, just North of Birmingham. She lived in a gorgeous home built with her partner, Lisa. Who was now somewhere remote on a mountain climb.
A lovely evening with Holly and the following morning we took her dog for a walk before saying farewell.

Our first campsite, while still in England, was in the Lake District. With limited 'free' camping in England, we opted for a relatively cheap paid camp site. This provided the perfect opportunity to test out our two person tent. Technically, it does fit two people, as long as they are under six foot. For the two of us, it was do-able, as long as we didn't want to point our toes or lift our arms.

From here, we ventured into Scotland, The South West corner at Galloway National Park. We found a divine camping spot, between a narrow gorge, beside a bubbling brook that ran into a loch. Heavy folage and green grass about, a crisp, moist area that felt like pixies would spring out from behind flowers any minute.

We carried our camping gear down from the car, a ten minute hike with backs loaded and arms folded around sleeping bags and an esky. We puzzled over the perfect spot then finally settled down and began setting up our tent and area. Just as we had everything in its place, the pixies paid us a visit.

They were here to stay, for the week. Though most in Scotland did not refer to them as pixies. They called them midges. And boy did were these midges create a nuisance. Something similar to what we would consider a small gnat. Easily brushed aside, quite often simple enough that when it landed on your skin, you wiped across and squashed it. However, these little buggers also bite. The bites were just like good solid mosquito bites. After a day they became particularly itchy.

Maybe you are asking yourself, why are we being so petty. Of course we are camping, there will be insects about.

These weren't just 'about', they were EVERY FRICKIN WHERE. Hundreds, upon hundreds of billions of them. Rising from the ground, as soon as ignorant campers settled in. Covering your skin like a black silk sheet, we were squashing thousands of them until we had the sense to properly cover up and get out our repellant.

Our first evening and morning in Midge Country, we were eating midges, drinking midges and squashing midges in the most annoying of places, ON THE EYE BALL!!!
When we escaped inside the tent or into our car, we would have to carefully inspect each others eyes to wipe away the midges on our eyelids!! They were incredible.

But we wouldn't let a billion small bugs ruin our Scottish camping experience. So we soldiered on. But they definitely deserved a mention.

We were camping on the edge of Loch Trool, we hiked to the other side where we found a larger open area in a field. While on the hike we learnt more of Robert Bruce. It was in this area he ambushed some English soldiers and won an early decisive battle prior to the Battle of Bannockburn.

That evening we improved our midge fortifications. The breeze aided, so too our movement around the camp and one lone soldier waving a tea towel while the other cooked.

We made our way further North, to Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park. A lovely afternoon stroll and we settled on a camp site with a view. Free camping was a permitted exercise in Scotland and most organised parks provided sign posted areas for where they recommend.

In Muirshiel woodlands we learnt about their attempt to remove the foreign North American pines plantations and replace them with native species instead. This meant vast areas of pines were cut down and small plantlings of native trees in protective cases spotted the hillsides.

Our next day was a venture in Glasgow. A walk around the city was enjoyed. Unfortunately we couldn't visit The People's Palace as a large music festival had taken over, TRNSMT 2019. Many youth's in bright colours and glitter were making their way towards the sound.

A proper pub meal meant we could catch the first half of the Cricket World Cup. We then made our way North towards Loch Lomond for a camp site. While in the car we listened to the second half and sadly the English cheat the Kiwi's out of their glory.

Loch Lomond was quite stunning. Many ferries and boats taking tourist groups out for a paddle. Even the odd family splashing in the cold water by the beach.

The next day we continued North, via Fort William and to a campsite near Invergarry. After five nights we felt it was time for a shower. Unaware when searching, but we stumbled across an 'Adults Only' campground. We each had our strong opinion for what that could mean.

While setting up camp, we were invited for drinks by a middle aged couple with a dog at a campervan near us. Jamie happily accepted while Ian thought alterior motives were at hand.

Turns out it was a lovely introduction. The couple were from Bolton and slowly making their way around Scotland. They enjoyed 'Pub Stop-overs' where you camp in the car park and spend all your time in the pub.
We bid farewell when Ian began taking his clothes off and Jamie said, 'Its not that sort of site'.

We then ventured West, all the way across to the Isle of Skye. We had regular pit stops for scenic views and small community markets. Neist Point and the lighthouse were a stark reminder of the weather that comes through this area. The lighthouse to warn boats of the precarious rocks potruding from the rough waves. Sheer cliff drops from a mixture of ocean erosion and strong winds. While peaceful for us while we hiked, you could imagine wild storms whipping through this area.

We loved to pick out cosy homes on the hill side that had grand views and devine gardens.

Our campsite that evening was perched on the top of a hill, overlooking a loch and attended by sheep. We knew of potential rain so we chose a spot protected by wind and battened down the hatches. After a hot meal we crawled into the tent and listened to the rain begin to fall.

That night we both lay awake wondering if our tent would hold. A nervous sleep as the wind tore around us and the rain pelted from above. Bright flashes of lightning and we questioned our choice of location. We survived the evening and for a brief moment in the morning had a few minutes when the rain stopped. We hastily packed up camp and rushed back to our car.

There, huddled in the car at 6am, the rain hit hard again. The wind rocked our small car but we caught another few hours of sleep in the seats.

Not wishing to venture out for breakfast preparation, we googled the nearest cafe and drove half an hour to its front door. There we waited until 9:30am and we were the first inside. A group of elderly ladies greeted us warmly, as though they had seen this before. Top of the menu was a 'Campers Breakfast'. Sausage, bacon, black pudding, eggs, baked beans, a roll and some coffee. How did they know that was exactly what we needed?

We toured around Skye that day, various look outs and scenic spots. A campsite on the North East of the island this time, alongside a regular highway for sheep. As we discovered during the evening when they all skirted around our tent, glaring at us disapprovingly.

The next day we were South, through many scenic points before departing the island. A truly wonderful time and remarkable landscape. So much, that we had not realised we were never once bothered by midges!

We now made our way North on the mainland, up towards Kinlochewe. A stunning entrance to Loch Maree as you drive through a gorge and look down the winding highway over the town and towards the water. We loved it so much we returned for dinner as the sun set.

Our campsite that evening was again clouded by midges. We considered ourselves the Midge Masters now, careful to prepare and remain as much in the car as we could. Leaving only our sleeping equipment in our tent and spending little time outside at dusk.

In the morning we used some nearby public toilets to prepare breakfast. Luckily no other visitors were in the area.

We now bid farewell to the West coast and drove across Scotland towards Dingwall. We enjoyed some sightseeing around Dornoch Firth before settling on an official campsite near Evanton. Having some spare time we opted for a nearby Whisky Distillery tour.
Dalmore Estate provided a lovely guided experience of their distillery that included a few tastings. We would have loved taking some bottles with us but at a price in excess of 75 pounds, they were all out of our budget. Particularly the 1969 Single Malt at 16,300 pounds for a litre!!

That evening, after a shower, relaxing in our tent, we had ourselves a delightful experience.
The campsite was inhabited by a mixture of folk. Closest to us, with tents as well, were three very large men. Large in the belly department, and transport using motorcycles. They each had a small tent, we wondered how they would squeeze into. They spent most of their time on a park bench they carried over to their area. We enjoyed the spectacle of them trying to erect a small canopy to keep away the rain.
As the light dwindled and we curled into our tent. Our imaginations wandered.
Three large gruff voices, gurgling, burbling, hollering and hoggering, keeping us awake. While wrapped in our cases and encased in our tent, we felt bundled and hugged, like maybe a rope was around us.
Uncertain of our fate, we lay wide awake, trying to make out any words from our captors.
To boil us, or fry, maybe in a stew, or even better, a roast with some herbs. That is the best way to eat two hobbits.

Drumming up the courage, we finally broke, in fits of laughter at the thought of our imaginary scene. Three lovely Scottish men, having a laugh, two wide eyed Aussie's, tired at last.

The next day we cruised down to Inverness. A large sign invited us to the Inverness Highland Games for 2019. Happened to be on the day we drove into town. Not missing the opportunity, we parked and paid our entry. A few hours going by as we watched marching bands, dancers, a variety of athletes competing in track sports and throwing of weights. We enquired at the Clan tent about our surnames, then sat in peace with a jam and scone amongst some local music.

A short stroll along the Ness river and we had a brief tour of town. Finally heading South, to a small place called Chapeltown, in the Cairngorms, Glenlivit area.
Here we spoke to a farmer, Sandy, he had a variety of sheep and cattle working on the land, an ancient family lease from the Glenlivet Estate. The hills surrounding were owned by Dutch family who used it once a year to hunt Grouse. He recommended some walks and offered us an alternative camp spot in one of his sheep paddocks if we wanted.
The next day we climbed the Ladder Hills. Famous for some old whisky bootleg trail. 800 metres we climbed to Carn Mor, we spotted a lot of red deer, some hares, frogs and birds, including Grouse.
We were fortunate with the weather, staying dry for most of the way. Only when we scrambled our way down we had to pick our way through the heath and made a few miss steps getting wet up to our knees.
A tiring but fun four hour hike.

That evening we relaxed in a pub of the nearby town, Tomintoul. Enjoying a few local ales, playing with the pub dog and devouring a delicious double venison burger with black pudding.

We didn't travel far the next day, still in the Cairngorms, down to Braemar and along the River Dee. A few more walks when we spotted a trail.
We camped on a road pull out overlooking the valley. Midges on the East Coast paled in comparison to their family on the West.

The next day we explored Scone Palace. The crowning seat for the majority of former Kings and Queens. They seemed a little peeved that the sacred stone was in Edinburgh and not at its rightful home in Scone. We were confused by the pronounciation of 'Scone'. We typically emphasise the 'own' version, while they turn attempt to remove all vowels and say 'skn'.
Of course, we had a scone in Scone Palace. It was delicious.
The only thing better than the Palace were the gardens. At one stage David Douglas worked there and while travelling the world gathering seeds, he brought a few back from the Americas, including the giant Fir. Now near the palace you can walk a 200 year old Fir forest.
Another spot of fun was had in the garden Murray Star Maze. Providing a map at the front made it much easier for us to navigate on the first time. Without looking, it could have been a challenging adventure.

That evening we found a small campsite in the Lomond Hills just North of Edinburgh. After dinner we put in a good climb at sun set to the Hill Fort at 500m altitude. This gave a lovely view of the Fife in all directions.

In the morning we made our way into Edinburgh. Our first port of call was Holyrood Park and making our way up Arthur's Seat. Weather was kind and we, along with many other tourists, hiked our way up the definitive view point of Edinburgh.
A quick snack and we meandered our way around some of the lower hills and back on sea level.
With Jamie leading the way we walked the sights of the city.
Particular interest the Summer school band playing in the gardens as Edinburgh Castle loomed overhead. We didn't venture inside the castle, but walked around the front. The Tattoo was being prepared and the stadium all in place. Back down the hill and through the winding streets we stumbled upon The World's End Pub. Of course we found time for an ale.

A quick visit to the National Museum and walking through a plethora of information and curious facts in large halls. Including a 'Hello' to Dolly the first ever cloned sheep! She was doing well for her age.

A drive South now from Edinburgh, we searched the Pentland Hills for a free campsite. We opted instead for a walking trail in a planted wood pine forest. We squeezed into a small area and prepared our dinner at the trailhead. We gave a friendly greeting to the dog walkers and they just smiled at us.

In the morning as we prepared our breakfast, a lovely lady walking her two dogs gave more than a hello in response. She actually invited us back to her house to use anything that we needed!!
Kitty, was from the Netherlands, her and her husband had travelled before and knew what it was like to be out camping. She offered her shower and toilets for use. We gladly accepted, as we also needed a top of water.
To our surprise, Kitty and her daughter made us some fruit smoothies which were fantastic. We exchanged details and we will always be open to them if they come to Australia. A surprise on the way out, Kitty also gave us a bottle of red! That was lovingly enjoyed that evening over dinner.

On a hot Summer day, reaching 32degrees, we made our way South, back into England. A longer drive this day, we made it all the way to Yorkshire Dales. A campsite this time and another hot shower. We explored Grassington and the Nidderdale area. Before finally saying farewell to our camping lifestyle and arriving in Castor, West of Peterborough and our old friend Ryan. Ryan had stayed with us for six months back in Melbourne.
It was a lot of fun to catch up with him while watching a local game of cricket at his club.

The next few days we relaxed at his home and a steady drizzle of rain came down. We met his new partner, Alice and we enjoyed dinner in Peterborough together.
On our third day we bid farewell and drove across to Fran at High Wycombe to return our camping equipment. A brief hello as well to another pair of cousins from New Zealand, Nick and his partner Odette.

Finally pulling in to park back at Linda and Phil's in Reading. Our home away from home. Fantastic to unload, relax, cook, stroll and drink with them. We were able to wash everything that needed washing and re-pack our backpacks. Ready for their next journey. Croatia!

An amazing time in the UK.
Wonderful friend's, tiny winding country roads, horrible freeway's, warm beer, greenery everywhere.
Scotland, expensive alcohol, horrible midges, dramatic landscapes, fun accents, castles everywhere and awesome scones.

Thank you England and Scotland, you really were a home away from home.